Roseau

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Dominica's capital, Roseau

There's plenty to see around the capital city, with its population of 20,000. The Roseau Museum is compact but well organized. Opposite the cruise ship jetty, it's housed in the old Post Office. Behind it is the Old Market, where slaves were once bought and sold and which now serves as a craft market. The New Market at the other end of the bay front hosts a stunning variety of tropical fruits, vegetables, flowers and craft items. Don't miss trying a refreshing drink of coconut water while there.

The Botanical Gardens, established in 1890, have survived several tropical storms and hurricanes, including 1979's Hurricane David which, in eight hours, transformed the once-magnificent grounds into a junkyard of wind-thrown trees. Evidence of David's wrath - and the resilience of the island's vegetation -- may still be seen in the remains of a large bus lying crushed beneath the weight of a massive, still-thriving Baobab tree. The large Gardens provide the only open space in Roseau, an idyllic setting for cricket matches, national parades and cultural celebrations. And its beauty and serenity still mark it as one of the gems of the Caribbean.

High above the Gardens is a fine vantage point, Morne Bruce, which can be reached from a track near the east gate, and provides a great view of Roseau.

The Carib Territory along the wave-battered east coast is home to the Kalinago Indians who once ruled the entire Eastern Caribbean. Established in 1903, about 3,400 people of Carib descent - the only pre-Columbian population remaining in the eastern Caribbean -- live in this 3,700-acre reserve. In villages along the main east coast road, you can watch artisans at work and purchase crafts from roadside stands. Intricately woven grass baskets, hats, and mats are Carib specialties.

Dominica